Manchester has gifted the world a lot of impressive things – from good ol’ Corrie to canals, atomic theory to Vimto, incredible music to the first passenger railway. However, that’s not all, as there’s one thing derived from Manchester that we often take for granted on a hot summer’s day – the ice cream cone.
Around the early 20th century, the iconic twist cone was first created right here in Manchester, specifically in Ancoats, which has officially been recognised as Manchester’s ‘Little Italy‘. As far back as the late 1800s, the small suburb became home to a large number of Italian migrants, bringing their beloved culture along with them that widely contributes to our city still to this day. One of which being their incredible food, including ice cream.
During this era, people ate ice cream from Penny lick glasses – a seller would serve a customer a scoop of ice cream in a glass, wash it, then use it for the next customer. Pretty grim, if you ask us. However, due to a potential ban because of health and hygiene concerns, an alternative way to eat ice cream was needed.
And we can thank the legend and biscuit maker Antonio Valvona, who migrated to Ancoats from Italy, to bless us with the creation of the twist cone we still enjoy today. In 1901, Valvona filed a patent for an ‘Apparatus for Baking Biscuit Cups for Ice Cream’ and the ingenious device allowed him to create edible waffle tubs made from a dough or paste similar to biscuits or cookies for ice cream scoops to perch on.
Ancoats was home to numerous ice cream families such as Marco Rea and sons; Vincenzo Schiavo (Vincent’s Ices); Carlo Tiani’s; Boggiano’s (Peter Burgon’s); Gerardo Scappaticci (Gerard’s Ices); Bernardo Scappaticci (Ben’s Ices); Carlo Visco’s (Mamma It’s Carlo); Rocca’s; Pessagno’s; Pandolfo’s; Trulio’s, Sivori’s; Raffo’s; Marocca’s; Meschia’s; Granelli’s (of Oldham Road); Bacigalupo’s; Mattiusi; Luchetti; Cabrelli’s; Granelli’s (North Road Clayton); Longinotti’s; Bertaloni’s; Coniola’s; Andrucci’s (Andrew’s); Perselli’s; Levaggi’s of Denton, and many more. Yet, the heritage of the historic Italian ice cream families still lives on as some continue to trade to this day.
If you take a walk down one of Manchester’s busiest streets, Market Street, you’ll find a little ice cream kiosk outside Tesco and further down, another little pizza kiosk outside Boots. These are both part of the Scappaticci family, who have been serving scoops of ice cream for over 100 years, and are part of an expansive 180 year history of the city.
Long story short, if it wasn’t for our Italian friends who moved to the Manchester area of Ancoats there would be no cone for your ice cream or ice cream vans as we know them today (jingles and all!), as well as delicious food and drink and an appreciation for the culture. Grazie mille!
A plaque recognising both Ancoats as ‘Little Italy’ and the Italians’ contribution to Manchester’s heritage can be found outside St Michael’s Church – a Roman Catholic church where the Italian community were welcomed. The plaque reads: “A community integral to Manchester’s economic and cultural heritage since the late 19th century.”